Landing in this capital city after a long flight? Waiting for your bike tour to start? With so much to do, staying awake
here is not a problem in this great Spanish City on the eve of a coronation.
It’s the middle of the night but
the traffic on the M30, Madrid’s main motorway around the city, still buzzes by
at high speed and in great quantity, giving a 24-7 hum
to a town known for its night owl culture.
But aside from this highway of activity there are still enough green
parks and warm benches in the city’s plentiful plazas for those not blessed
with hyper activity.
Guidebooks have a bit of a problem
nailing down a pat description of Spain’s capital, as it is a bursting
diversity of old and vibrantly new in constant flux. However, all agree that if
it is a bar or restaurant you are after you are spoiled for choice as this is
the place to find it and some of the tastiest nibbles in Europe. Tapas, meaning “lid” and perhaps Spain’s most
famous dining experience is a simple and attractive way to spend your time
here. Tapas formally a custom in the
south provinces was originally adapted from the placing of a small dish over
the glass of wine or beer to hinder flies from alighting. With the addition of a small portion of food
on this disc came the birth of a culinary particularity of Spain.
As you perch on bar stools in the
warmly lit pubs, conversation flows around you in the rapid fire Spanish that Madrileños
speak. Your order of a glass of vino
tinto is accompanied by a most friendly sized portion of chilied olives with
more than a hint of anchovies, followed soon after by slices of peppery chorizo
sausages, roast potato croquettes and pale tasty calamaris. In fact you can just about spend your whole
supper appetite in here for the price of a few drinks. I tucked into a slightly
spicy portion of pimientos de pardon – fried small green peppers tipped in sea
salt while escaping to the café packed area of La Latina, from the mid day sun,
the kind that melts asphalt and watched the latest football news, something of
which the Madrileños are mad about, on the small TV hovering up in the
corner like a chattering bird.
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Plaza de Cibeles, end point of La Vuelta a España, Spain´s Great Bike Race |
Whilst the scorching summer
temperatures in the city during July and August probably discourages the more
active daytime sports, (although it is said they do count love in the afternoon
siesta as one) those that live here catch up in the evening stroll where entire
extended families promenade, wishing each other Buenas Tardes or good afternoon
despite it going on bedtime for the rest of Europe. “La Marcha”, is for the younger or those with
mas energía and is the all night activity of looking for fun that can leave you
coming home often after a night of drinking and dancing in bright morning
sunshine. Thus, the key to Spanish time
is don’t peak too early, having your dinner after 10:00 is the norm and don’t
even bat an eyelash at leaving home after midnight to start your evening. Although, upon saying that, you won’t be hard
pressed in finding somewhere to spend your night as outdoor cafes are packed in
the early hours and the live music scene here is burgeoning with everything
from Brazilian samba, heavy metal and traditional flamenco.
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Plaza España - Don Quixote |
In comparison to the other cities
of Spain, Madrid is the younger brother as the Moors from North Africa only
formally settled it in 852 A.D. The
Christian conquest of the area in the 11th century prompted
centuries of royal squabbles and political wrangling continuing through the
reign of Queen Isabella and Ferdinand and the likes of Napoleon, several civil
wars and the dictatorship rule of generalissimo Franco in the 1930’s to
70’s. Spain’s democracy of the last
thirty years, now with 21st century problems to deal with, has bridged a
turbulent modern history of isolation from the international community during
its dictatorship. As well, although the monarchy is generally a figurehead in
political power terms, this week, the Madrileños
who love a fiesta, are about to be celebrating a coronation in a few days on June 18th 2014 on the occasion
of King Carlos´abdication (after 39 years rule) in favour of his son Prince Felipe VI, who is actually married to a divorcee, ex-journalist and non blue blood!
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Prince Felipe y Letizia, soon to be King & Queen |
So brushing aside traditional social conventions have been embraced here just like in its politics. As almost a visual clue to this flux, the avenues are a mixture of old and new and a walk around its centre (a small and easily managed one at that) shows this evidence of hundreds of years of great artistic wealth in all areas continuing on.
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The Prado Art Museum |
This dichotomy of the ages is best seen in the art gallery Centro de
Arte Reina; the permanent collection notably houses Picasso’s heart rendering
civil war epic Guernica. The gallery
itself a 20th century glass convection that is intertwined with the
18th century build General hospital.
Of course if it is art galleries you want then a necessary visit to one
of the world’s greatest is in order. The
Prado’s collection of Spanish painters in unrivalled and as you wander about
the Picasso’s, Goya’s, and Velasquez’s you will covet this city’s
treasures. It is no wonder the Madrileño
is filled with such love of their city, even the most dumpy woollen coated
matron seems to walk to the market with a heavy assertiveness and if you do
follow them and watch them fill their chequered shopping buggy with the
cornucopia mouth watering produce known to Spain you’ll understand this pride.
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El Rastro |
If it’s a Sunday you might even slip down to the 500 year old market place itself, The Rastro (meaning The Trail, a nod to the streams of blood that were from surrounding slaughterhouses), which in essence, a giant car boot sale with great hole in the wall tapas bars, boutiques and stalls selling all sorts.

Mixing with the crowd who was stocking up on
touristy Torro Tee shirts or browsing through the North African leather bags and
shoes filled my morning happily in this thriving throng. If it’s more trendier
stuff or a better clothes selection, head to Los Austrias around the Plaza
Mayor. This recognizable part of the city, a vast red hued plaza from the 16th
century is filled with outdoor restaurants, street artists, wandering accordion
players and if lucky some of Madrid’s free city festivals. I ventured by in the
week of San Isidro (Madrid’s patron saint) and was treated to a free musical
concert and a heaping portion of cocido, (a traditional stew of the city)
ladled out by a neatly trimmed bearded chef who winked broadly and enticingly
held out another spoonful with a “mas?” (more?). From here it is a short walk to the Catedral
de la Almudena, spot lit at night a yellow green, highlighted by an indigo sky
and the official royal residence Palacio Real and where there are some good
panoramas of the city. At some point you’ll also hit Puerta del Sol, a busy hub of shops, patisseries (Footballer David Beckham supposedly bought his treats in one on the corner) and where to spot the famous bear and the strawberry tree sculpture, a modern interpretation of Madrid’s ancient coat of arms.
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El Retiro |
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Palacio Real |
After a day trolling around like this I exhaustedly gave
my feet a break in one of the many excellent tree lined parks, and being close
to the Prado I chose the Retiro. With
its bucolic atmosphere of shady benches, grassy nooks and a lake to paddle in,
I took part in the integral part of Spain, the siesta and nodded off watching
the rest of Madrid frolic around me in the setting sun getting ready for a full
night ahead.
Travel
Tips : Use Madrid´s excellent train connection to get south with direct high speed train access to Sevilla , Malaga or Cordoba the jumping off point for our bike tours in the south. See www.Renfe.com for more information on train travel south or north.
Web
Info: The City of Madrid runs the website
www.munimadrid.es, for further information.
When
to go: There is a saying here that the
weather here is “6 months of winter (invierno) and 3 months of hell
(infierno)”. Whilst this expression is a trifle harsh, December, January, and
February can be cold, with July and August being particularly warm. Thus the
autumn months and spring can be delightful times to visit especially if you coincide it with the end of La Vuelta, the Bicycle race of the Tour of Spain which generally ends racing down Madrid´s street to the final spot - Plaza de Cibeles (aside from in 2014 when it will be ending in Santiago de Compostela).

Of course, there are also plethora of fiestas throughout the year for you to partake in, making it a year
round destination.
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